This Chardonnay is from Xavier’s 0.98ha block on the vineyard in Maffra, Gippsland. planted in 1988. Xavier calls it the ‘estate’ Chardonnay. The grapes were 100% whole cluster pressed to tank for settling before it was moved to french barriques for fer- mentation. The wine stays in the barrels for a slow fermentation and is stirred once or twice prior to malo. This wine is full of body and richness and is a real showcase of the old vines.

This is a wine of understated power and subtle elegance. It’s built on ripe yellow fruit, Sicilian lemons, bitter-skinned peaches and Golden Delicious apples. There’s a flinty overtone and a smidge of sweet toffee top note in the fruity bouquet. Crisp flavours are infused in a long line of focused grapefruity acidity that cuts seamlessly through a gentle yoghurty mid-palate creaminess. Just a hint of aniseed, caraway and mint to the finish make it a refreshing and savoury proposition. It’s a textural and characterful drop.

Mike Bennie, The Wine Front, 94 points

"From 1988 planted vines and a plot exclusive to Xavier Goodridge, winemaker here. It’s a just under a hectare of vineyard in Maffra, Gippsland. Xavier has long made in-reach pinot noir and chardonnay wines, this his elevated range and a clarion call of his fine wine credentials. There’s a lot of flavour and supple texture here, a good thing; clear calling cards of chardonnay in ripe apple, stone fruits, ginger, nougat, sugared almond and cooling, faintly briny minerality. Scents are joyous and overt alongside the more character filled references to taste. It’s very satisfying, well balanced, even, flows beautifully, and delivers good savouriness to distinguish itself from a pack. The lingering morsels of woody spice, salted cashew and light cinnamon a treat. Personality plus, with refreshment factor on hand. Very, very good drinking."